Leimus Nicaragua Crossing

Posted: February 9, 2011 in Nicaragua

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After arriving to Puerto Lempira, I filled up on gas and headed down towards Nicaragua. There is only one “highway” available. It’s mainly a forestry road in a pretty bad shape. You need an SUV to drive it or a big truck. It also started raining which made it a lot worse. Some of the “puddles” could eat my bike alive. Traffic on the road was almost non existent but if you stopped for any reason and a truck would pass by, it would stop and the driver would ask you if you were ok.

Around this area of the world, sometimes it’s easier to take it through the river than the actual “bridge”. Luckily, I was standing on another newer bridge while taking this photo so I didn’t have to ride the river.

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Had to stop at a military checkpoint. The guys were really nice and let me relax with them for a bit as it was pouring hard when I stopped. They also told me that there was a comedor a few minutes down the road so when the rain calmed down, I went into the hopes of a good warm soup.

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And they did have some really good chicken soup. Adalberto was enjoying a bowl of it.

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And more military guys:

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The local dog

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The military all terrain vehicle… almost like a Hummer…

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And none other but the Colonel himself. He is responsible for the whole border on the Honduras side between Honduras and Nicaragua. Right away he asked me what I had on my bike and what I was transporting along with many other questions.

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Here is what happens when they find out that you have about 10 kilos of coke on you:

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But I didn’t have any so it was all good. After talking over a “few” beers and enjoying a meal, he said that the rain was really bad and it was getting late, so he invited me to stay over at his batallion along with about 200 other soldiers. I couldn’t refuse his generous invitation.

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My sleeping quarters. This is the bunker they use for the US military guys when they come over. The US military helps with some really basic technology stuff, some emergency food and other basic equipment. Now the bunker had noone there so I had it pretty much all to myself.

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A comfy bed, clean bathroom with showers! Food and drinks included too! It was nice change after the skid plates on the boat and no shower in 3 days.

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Back on the road the next morning, you could see the aftermath of the rain. Some parts of this road would have been really hard if I didn’t stop over at the military base. Lots of fun the next morning though!

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A few miles down the road, I see a bicycle with saddle bags. Must be another tourist! As I pass by I see it’s Cass! He is the one who told me about the possible boat ride in La Ceiba. While I was up on the island partying and diving, he rode the whole Moskita on his bicycle. Brave guy!

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We kinda rode together till the border. He was just a few minutes behind me actually but caught up as I was doing my “paperwork” with the military guy sitting in a shack. The is no duana here or actual border people. It’s just a military guy writing down your information in a school type notebook. No stamp in the passport either or a bridge as a matter of fact to cross over.

On the other side of the river you can see Honduras. We crossed over in a Lancha. Made the bike fit into that small green kayak with no problems.

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Getting it out of it was a different story! We were at the base of a super steep hill that was pure mud because of the rain.

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Here’s the guys who helped me get the bike across and push it up the hill. The kid on the left is the captain of the boat and the one on the right is just a really nice guy who helped me find gas for the boat, load the bike and everything else. As you can see by their shirts it was no easy task! We dropped the bike off the boat, welds broke on the pannier holders, dropped the bike in the mud….

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As I came up on the hill, flooring the bike in the muddy trail in first gear and wheeling off the last bump, this family living on top of the hill thought they saw a ghost. They were literally speechless.

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On the Nicaragua side, there was another military checkpoint where the guys were really nice and polite. Did all the writing down of the paperwork, called our info in on their old school radio to the main base and we were on our way to Waspan, a border town about an hour away.

I got my welds done up again for the 2nd time in the same spots.

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And the welder’s kids were happy too. Meanwhile Cass had already left about 2 hours earlier.

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But I met him down the road as he was helping a local guy fix a puncture.

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We’re headed that way….

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Poser! 😀

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On this side of this bridge there was another military checkpoint. After writing down our info, the captain offered us the backyard to set-up camp for the night. Free camping, body guards with automatic guns and a great scenery was backpackers luxury.

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Here’s my campsite. In the pic is my Big Agnes SL2 tent which is having some major issues with the zipper as both front zippers on the inner part are broken or braking. I will e-mail Big Agnes and see if they will help me solve the issue, but meanwhile I will have to get a mosquito net to set over the door.

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  1. Wow.. this is crazy 🙂 Stay safe

  2. E- says:

    Wonderful that people are so nice!
    and that you manage so well with everything! Bravo!

  3. otbiking says:

    hey stefan, great to see the pics! nice one.
    I’m in granada, what a ride! Headed to isla ometepe tomorrow. see you on the road!

  4. Vlad says:

    Cool pictures. The first one you can sell it to Kawasaki KLR650 for an advertising poster.

  5. moskomoto says:

    Great info! I’ll be riding that same road next week. Spent a few days on that same base at mocoron as well last year. Cool to see this post!

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